My contractor just finished a gut renovation of my bathroom. What I learned is:

• Know what style you want (traditional, mid century modern etc.) and get towel bars, faucets etc. that go together.

• Draw and dimension where everything will go. Towel bar, mirror, light fixtures etc. etc. If you do not specify where things will go the contractor will and it won’t be what you want. Consider getting a 3d design program which really helps visualizing layouts, and if you take the time, colors and styles

• Figure out exactly what you want before the job starts.

• For towel bars and shower doors, get blocking (wood) put behind them so they are not attached to just sheet rock.

• Include all of the above in the contract, along with: how long the project will take, who is buying what, who will take care of the garbage and everything else in detail. If you don’t specify, the contractor will do what he thinks and it won’t be what you want. Make sure this is all in the contract or write your own contract and get the contractor to sign it, which is what I did.

• Get smart on all aspects of bathroom renovation, like what insulation should be on exterior walls and in the ceiling (R-13, R-30, etc.)? How should a shower pan be installed? Then, check to see if the contractor is doing it right.

• Every night, after the contractor has left, get some lights on and check that things are being done correctly and how you requested. It’s much easier to catch something early than later. “A stich in time saves nine”

• Maintain a good relationship with your contactor. Pay him before he asks. Offer water, coffee and lunch. Show him respect for his knowledge and tell him when something is done well or looks great. If there is a problem, speak mater-of-factly and not emotionally. For example “ I see there’s R-13 insulation on the ceiling when I thought code calls for R-30 on a cathedral ceiling, in this zone”

• If you are buying materials like tile, toilets and vanities, get them on the job before he needs them and immediately check they are not broken, they are what you want and they are the right size.

Just some things I thought I learned. Love to hear any of your experiences working with contractors!

Bill,

Good stuff!

-add wood blocking for grab bars in the shower walls.

-take DATED photos EVERY DAY to prove lack of progress when the contractor sues for more money for "all the extra work he did"

and also show elec lines, etc before drywall.

Trust a contractor as far as you can throw them.

BRAD

If ya don't plan,

I didn’t write this as an all-inclusive renovation checklist, more just some things that popped out for me, but yes Dodge, payment terms on the contract! Was 1/3 at start 1/3 half way through and 1/3 completion. I figured halfway was once the sheetrock went up.

Well thanks BRAD! I didn’t do any grab bars, but in hindsight I should have posted this before I did the job and you may have told me something like “you’re not getting any younger, so grab bars are a good idea and make sure you put some blocking behind them” :-) And I forgot this time, but have taken photos before sheetrock went up and found it very helpful to know where elec, plumbing, ducts are behind walls and ceilings. Trick is to name the photos/directory so you’ll be able to search for them 5,10 years from now.

That is interesting Sisco. How would you write that?

Geeze Robert, that sounds frustrating. How about videotape them when they start giving instructions?

Yeah RB, almost like plan once and build once (vs twice)

You’re supposed to feign a cough, Bill! Lol!

Good list Bill.

This list works for husbands too. I mean working with husbands. Unfortunately I couldn’t fire him when he put the towel bar and toilet paper holder on the WRONG studs and blocking. I had already done a three part custom paint treatment that does not take to patching well, so I’ve had to live with the toilet paper holder directly over the heat register and under the towel bar . When furnace kicks on, toilet paper flutters around tickling yer leg. And wet towels have to be folded in half down the length to hang on only half the towel bar to dry so they don’t get the toilet paper wet.

feign a cough? Ahh, that's what you do. I was trying to feign a noisy fan.

Well, look on the bright side, people pay extra for a heated towel bar and you've got one for free along with heated toilet paper. Luxury at its finest!

Robert, I would have liked to use spray foam, but these guys didn't know how to do it and when I've contacted spray foam companies in the past, they want to do like a minimum $3k job.

Thank you for sharing, Bill. I don't generally hire contractors, seems to be overpriced and too many problems. I DIY most things. I am curious though, how much did it cost?

Also, when taking photos of where things are, it can be helpful to put a tape measure on the floor or the wall.

It was a guy renovation of a 6 x 12 bathroom. The tub was replaced with a 36 x 72 shower pan with sliding glass doors, both gotten from Costco. Everything stayed in the same place. 6 x 24 tile on the floor and 3 x 12 tile only on the shower walls. There was a 44 x 22 window in the shower, up high.

I paid $15k plus 2.5k for an expanded hallway closet and a few other extras. I provided all the visible things: vanity, shower base, doors, toilet and tile and contractor provided sheetrock, wire, etc.

Oh, and I do like having a tape measure in the photos. A lot of times it saves having to do a sketch with dimensions. A picture says a thousand words.

And that is pretty much what I do to0 with the photos, put them in a sub directory under the house address.

When you pay them ALWAYS get a material and labor release for all work done to date and all materials supplied. Have everyone sign it- contractor and ALL the workers, WITHOUT FAIL.

-all change orders in writing, with a price, signed by both parties.

-Richard is describing a LIEN WAIVER. Essential!

Should any of the specifications in this agreement not be followed, contractors shall remove all plumbing fixtures, wall coverings, floor coverings, electrical fixtures , and remove non conforming items, then replace with items which conform to specifications contained in this agreement. contractors shall Complete the project as specified. Homeowner shall not incur any expense from the remediation process.

Thanks Sisco. I like that, how it's spelled out. In the past I fell like i've paid extra for contractors fixing their mistakes and this makes it clear the contractor is responsible. I'll bet it also keeps contractors a little more on their toes to do the work as specified.

Thanks Robert, I hadn’t considered HD for a spray foam kit and it seems like this may have worked and saved the additional 2 x 6 below the rafter. The Froth-Pak kit I looked at showed r 12 at 2” thick but it seems that 2” was the max thickness they recommended so I couldn’t get R-30 with that particular product but there's probably others I could.

Richard and BRAD, Change orders in writing make sense to me, but I haven’t heard of the material and labor release. I was working with my neighbor, who is a contractor and I did trust him, though I hadn’t worked with him before.

Thanks for sharing Bill.

Thanks Ray-N-Pa for letting me know that. Good to hear!

Robert, I just watched "Using a Froth Pak - DAP System 600 Spray Foam Kit A Concord Carpenter / ToolBoxBuzz". Really good. I wish I would have talked to you before the renovation! Well, I do have a cantilevered extension I was looking to better insulate/air seal, so it may work there. Thanks!

Not specific to bathrooms, but other gut renovation lessons:

Before drywall is installed, mark on the sub-floor with a permanent marker the location of studs. Particularly in the kitchen, where cabinets will be installed, in closets where you will install shelf supports. Anyplace that is "special", like the studs are not spaced evenly, there used to be a door there & now there is a header in the wall instead of a stud all the way up, the (rotted) bottom was sistered with a new stud & the one you see low doesn't go all the way up, etc. If the final floor is already in, use painters tape.

I also take photos of the studs & support wood I installed, where special things will go later - with a tape measure in the photo sometimes, but it's easier to do by marking the measurement on the wood - with a directional arrow as to which way it was measured from- and take a photo of that.

Thanks Sisco, I hadn't thought of putting it on my lease.

BillW, as someone who has put a lot of base trim down over the years it is always easier to look at a mark on the floor than to grab a stud finder and spend more time.

I have marked one stud then put a tape measure out to get the rest. Only on new/good construction tho. Those odd ones where there is an old door or someone put the stud on the wrong side of the line will get you.

Hanging rock I use the same thoughts. But I add pencil marks on the ceiling as well so I can just shoot screws all the way down.

Bill:

Like zero said, it's quicker & easier when you can still see where the studs are - and when they are not all new, plumb, & perfectly spaced.

For me, the final floor is the last thing to go down. If I want stud locations for baseboard, I could transfer the floor mark to the lower wall, in pencil

Depends on the flooring you are installing. If a rental and I am putting LVP or carpet then the base goes up before the floor goes down. Carpet tucks and LVP gets quarter round for ease of future removal.

If putting ceramic, glue down vinyl or some such I transfer the lines to the wall. Usually the bottom line of drywall fasteners doesn't get coated in mud so I already have it there. Then when floor is done I can put marks on painter's tape if needed.