I need to replace this old fashioned material that is on the walls inside the tub area. It is old, flaking and getting bowed out with water damage. I have been looking at those tub surrounds panels which you can buy in 3 pieces.

Had a contractor come in Monday and he said I had to just about gut the bathroom...pull out the nice cast iron tub, get a whole new tub and surround, redo the plumbing to the tune of 5,500!

I don't want to reinvent the wheel here...I came across these interesting waterproof panels called Dumawall Panels. They can go right over existing tiles, wallboard, or anything that is on the wall. The interlock, are completely waterproof, and look easy to install.

I had another contractor come in today and he said he could either tile the area, or install those panels, and I don't have to rip out the tub!!

Anyone ever have any experience with these panels? Look them up, they are interesting. Outside of ceramic tiles, any other suggestions? I think those 3 piece surround things may be hard to fit around the existing tub area.

He will take down the old material and put this stuff up. I'm sure he will far more reasonable!

The first contractor just thinks you have a lot of wealth if you are a landlord, and he wants your money.

I never heard of that product before, but it looks quite interesting.

Dumawall Panels

Really does look like a good new product that could be useful.

Especially when you need a quick job. Like when a property is occupied.

I agree with Robert from Ontario, in a kitchen or bathroom you open the surface and discover then you can not put it together without rep!acting what you could not see and it has decayed badly - don't want to mention the 4 letter word that neglected mildew becomes, plan for the worst and if you can save anything you should get a lottery ticket.

I am a licensed contractor and plumber who often deals with replacing bathtub surroundings. I'm also a long term landlord and work on my own rentals.

A client friend had similar issues. He was given estimates from several other contractors. So I came to the rental and did my assessment.

I removed the control flange and trim to expose the wall backing. Using my moisture meter I found unacceptable wet materials in the wall. I told my friend that I needed to remove the old wall tiles and plaster down to the studs. Then I needed to treat the wood studs and build back up the walls to a thickness were we would apply the new tub surround kit. A build up of around 2 inches.

My estimate was a song, dirt cheep. He, my friend, though he was being taken advantage of -- even through I showed him the readings and image taken with my professional moisture meter.

So he went along with a handyman and had a new surround kit installed over the old walls.

Within weeks the smell from mold got the tenant sick, who lost out on work because of this. The tenant contacted "Housing" who ordered the unit vacated until the bathroom get Remediation and a complete make over.

From a few hundred dollars to do the job right, my friend now had to spend over ten thousand dollars, not including the lost rent during the remodel.

If it has moisture damage and is bowing, I would think it has to be removed. Mold and rot are moisture issues that don't go away by covering it. If it is on the outside wall insulation is an issue too.

Even if you do remove the board and maybe replace the studs, you want to use a good moisture proof "wallboard". That way if there are any leaks, it is less likely to damage.

We use PVC interlocking wainscoting panels for tub surrounds these days. If we want to get fancy, we add a row of mosaic tiles at the very top. But usually just go tub to ceiling with them and add PVC molding to top and corners.

I've used stuff similar. If tile is left on wall it's very difficult to attach to it. Our last jog we yanked all the tile-- left the tub--- used duroc board as underpayment and then panels. Putting board directly over studs DOES NOT WORK-- u need something of some substance behind the panels.

I've used stuff similar. If tile is left on wall it's very difficult to attach to it. Our last jog we yanked all the tile-- left the tub--- used duroc board as underpayment and then panels. Putting board directly over studs DOES NOT WORK-- u need something of some substance behind the panels.

Overall this product shows promise as an easy way for DIYs to cover walls instead of tile. However like all of the miracle no work weight loss muscle building programs out there, I don't think it's a magic solution. I do see that if it was installed correctly it could be ideal for upgrading an occupied unit.

As others have said you need to be sure that the surface it's being installed on is solid & there isn't any hidden problems. Especially since their 10 warranty is only for materials. It does not cover any labor or L&M to repair any damages caused by leaking panels.

According to their web site the panels / tiles come 21 SF to a carton & cost about $4.00 a SF. You would need to add caulking & metal trim to this. A typical shower area requires about 60SF - 70SF of wall covering. I'm thinking it would cost about $300.00 - $350.00 for the materials to panel an average tub area. IMO this is about 2-3 times what it would cost to buy a 3 sided panel kit to do the same thing.

The old stuff will come off the walls, then we will see what is behind it. Small potaotes...can you let me know what that pvc board stuff is at HD? I saw something yesterday that sounds like what you mentioned, but it wasn't suggested for a shower/tub area.

I remodeled a shower last month, it was an original from 1954.

I had to remove everything in sight, down to the studs - that took a day. Then clean up, treat the mold, replace the faucet, install moisture barrier, Cement Boards, re-do the floor and tile the walls.

Your first estimate is the way to go. Get additional estimates including the same things, and you may save some money. Don't get trapped with your second estimate, because it's the wrong way to do it and will cost you more in the long run.

If your shower valves are in decent condition, gut a bathroom wall takes probably half a day for 2 guys (we did many similar upgrades from clawfoot tub to new tub & vinyl panel surrounding in last couple years. ($30 plywood, $60 pvc panel kit from bargain outlet)

If it is just a class C rental, 1/2" or 3/4" plywood as backer, then glue down the PVC panel over them can be done within half a day with a helper (If you are handy)

The fancier version would be cement boards, then 12" tile. That's about a day's worth of work (grout 2nd day, done)

If the bottom section of the stubs were rotted, sister some 2x3 or 2x4 then move on. The walls typically are not load bearing, so, no sense of making it last another thousand years..

To me the panels is a band aid.

In 2008 I removed a 1970s ugly green fiberglass tub - put in a white 7124 Sterling Kohler - this isn't the cheapo - three piece surround and the tub - Demo to the studs - Surrounds attaches to the studs. A good handy man can do this. Unit still looks good and is easy to clean - a must with those tenants that are not to clean.

2010 Removed old cast iron tub put in another Sterling Kohler - same drill same long term results.

Jo, the HD surround is Peerless sturdifit 5 piece kit. The panels should be noticeably thick, not wafer thin. The corner pieces are thin. You will want to make sure the walls are squared up, otherwise there will be a large gap when you overlay the corner pieces. I cheated and used cement board on the lower 2' of wall and blueboard above that. The other issue w/ 3 piece kits is that the fiberglass is brittle. It took me 4 tries to get a kit that had all god pieces. I wound up combining kits and taking the rejects back. At lowes you might see these in the return section where the flange is damaged but the panel is ok. They are discounted well, and install fine, since you cover up the flange.

Jo, I've successfully used the three piece plastic panels to cover up a really ugly bathtub surround, but there was no evidence of water damage.

If it looks like water damage, I recommend you strip the area down and repair any water damage that you find behind and underneath. Do it right and don't just cover it up.

You won't know if the tub has to be removed until you see what is back there. If there is rot or mold in the walls, it might go underneath the tub and at that point, you need to remove the tub.

$5500 sounds a bit high to me, so get a couple more estimates.

Family joke when we are watching the remodel TV shows. "Oohh Nooo! Don't open the wall!!!

She says right in the video that you should add a thin line of caulk to all grout lines. THat sounds to me like water could get between the seams if you don't maintain all these caulk lines...ouch!

I have been gluing up sheets of FRB for tub and shower walls for over 10 years without problems.