 water line pressure (by small potatoes [NY]) Oct 22, 2018 12:57 PM
 water line pressure (by Landlord ofthe Flies [TX]) Oct 22, 2018 1:09 PM
water line pressure (by Vee [OH]) Oct 22, 2018 1:15 PM
water line pressure (by Ken [NY]) Oct 22, 2018 1:41 PM
water line pressure (by fred [CA]) Oct 22, 2018 4:45 PM
water line pressure (by small potatoes [NY]) Oct 22, 2018 8:32 PM
water line pressure (by Wilma [PA]) Oct 23, 2018 12:13 PM
water line pressure (by CX [WA]) Oct 23, 2018 1:08 PM
water line pressure (by small potatoes [NY]) Oct 23, 2018 7:21 PM
water line pressure (by small potatoes [NY]) Posted on: Oct 22, 2018 12:57 PM
Message:
In my municipality the static water pressure is at least 90psi. (measured w/ my flow meter at an exterior spigot). I am replacing pipes in one house and there is an old pressure limiting valve that I'm pretty sure does not function. The valve is on the main feed before anything branches off of it. From the days when I did irrigation systems 60psi was a good starting point for house pressure, 90 seems excessive. I also have an issue w/ the main being a 1/2 inch line and both units have issues with using water at the same time.
Q- what are your thoughts on the impact of high water pressure on water heaters, etc. and if you experience this do you install pressure limiting valves (or not) and why? --24.194.xx.xx |
water line pressure (by Landlord ofthe Flies [TX]) Posted on: Oct 22, 2018 1:09 PM
Message:
Greater damage if it experiences a water hammer. Best replace the pressure valve right after meter --108.69.xxx.xxx |
water line pressure (by Vee [OH]) Posted on: Oct 22, 2018 1:15 PM
Message:
The hammering will wreck flex lines, faucet and dish/laundry parts, make something elementary like a riser above the meter, regulators often relax as the steel cover gets rusted but above 45 and below 90 is a good range, if you put your tester on the sediment drain on the tank you want to set it to 80 there after the sediment is out. --76.188.xxx.xx |
water line pressure (by Ken [NY]) Posted on: Oct 22, 2018 1:41 PM
Message:
I get along with the plumbing inspector pretty well in your city and I recall having a conversation several years ago where he told me the pressure was too high in parts of the city and it was causing problems with breaking lines and he told me that I should put something on the line to limit it.Also assuming you are doing this without permits realize there is an inspector named Tom who will write you up even if he catches it ten years from now if he doesn't find a permit in the file and if you sell it he will write up the new owner if they refuse to get permits for the old job at that time.He started to write me up once for a wall hanging furnace because of no permit and he acknowledged it was probably 45 years old so I told him I would be glad to stand in front of the judge and explain to the judge that clearly someone else put it in because I was only about 5 then and he finally dropped it at that point --72.231.xxx.xxx |
water line pressure (by fred [CA]) Posted on: Oct 22, 2018 4:45 PM
Message:
Replace the pressure reducing valve, to keep indoor pressure under 80 psi.
Lingering higher pressure will damage your complete system, faucets, valves, etc. --99.59.x.xxx |
water line pressure (by small potatoes [NY]) Posted on: Oct 22, 2018 8:32 PM
Message:
Thanks for the feedback.
I will put the pressure valve in. I don't have water hammer issues anywhere. At least while I have been in apts working on them.
Vee if I understand you, you recommend my static pressure should be 80 psi? and use the HW tank drain valve as a place to test pressure?
I was going to put back a new pressure meter in-line after the new valve.
Ken I got the 'ok' over the phone to replace the lines after they saw my prior work. Plus I got a permit to replace the HW tank recently and this building has been inspected inside and out Re: a housing grant and subsequent lawsuit I filed against the contractor who did shoddy work approved by the grant manager (the city came in and wrote up much of it!).
My related issue is splitting up the CW lines so one unit flushing the toilet doesn't cause shower issues in the other. Since the main is only half inch, I don't think bumping up to 3/4 and back down is a solution.
--24.194.xx.xx |
water line pressure (by Wilma [PA]) Posted on: Oct 23, 2018 12:13 PM
Message:
I have a rental in an HOA that had the water pressure regulating equipment go bad - pressures went to 110 (normally around 40). The water heater cold water inlet leaked at a joint just before the pressure tank. Fortunately, we're getting reimbursed for the plumber cost. --71.175.xxx.xxx |
water line pressure (by CX [WA]) Posted on: Oct 23, 2018 1:08 PM
Message:
80 psi still high, aim for 65 psi and monitor it from time to time, say 2x/year. The water pressure regulator internal parts do wear out and will require rebuilding/replacement when the pressure starts to creep up again.
Stay with trusted brand (Watts, for ex.) and preferably buy from plumbing supply store rather than big box store-- better selection, better quality.
About the 1/2" supply main for both units-- this is seriously undersized and not sufficient if two showers going at the same time, for example. Need at least 3/4" or even better 1" to feed both units. What is the size of the water meter? --174.21.xxx.xxx |
water line pressure (by small potatoes [NY]) Posted on: Oct 23, 2018 7:21 PM
Message:
I got a watts 1/2" adjustable regulator comes set at 50 psi. I am putting a 100 psi gauge in line after the regulator.
There is no water meter and the 'main' line is 1/2". We are billed a flat rate for water & sewer.
I'm going to give each floor it's own branch of CW. --24.194.xx.xx |
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