 Insulation and cooling (by Rangor [TN]) May 24, 2018 7:32 AM
 Insulation and cooling (by Busy [WI]) May 24, 2018 8:03 AM
Insulation and cooling (by plenty [MO]) May 24, 2018 8:11 AM
Insulation and cooling (by NC INVESTOR [NC]) May 24, 2018 9:34 AM
Insulation and cooling (by fred [CA]) May 24, 2018 10:18 AM
Insulation and cooling (by Doris [OH]) May 24, 2018 10:36 AM
Insulation and cooling (by Landlord ofthe Flies [TX]) May 24, 2018 10:52 AM
Insulation and cooling (by Vee [OH]) May 24, 2018 12:19 PM
Insulation and cooling (by Robert J [CA]) May 24, 2018 5:20 PM
Insulation and cooling (by gevans [SC]) May 24, 2018 5:28 PM
Insulation and cooling (by Rangor [TN]) May 24, 2018 5:44 PM
Insulation and cooling (by Robert,OntarioCanada [ON]) May 24, 2018 9:42 PM
Insulation and cooling (by Busy [WI]) May 25, 2018 4:35 AM
Insulation and cooling (by Hollis [MA]) May 25, 2018 12:27 PM
Insulation and cooling (by Sisco [MO]) May 26, 2018 7:43 AM
Insulation and cooling (by Rangor [TN]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 7:32 AM
Message:
I have an older two story house from the 60's (so low ceilings) that my new tenants are saying is difficult to get as cool as they would like. My HVAC guy added a couple pounds last week and has told me that the unit itself is doing what it is supposed to be doing and that if it still doesn't get to a comfortable temperature that it is possibly an insulation issue.
The lower level has a garage below the kitchen that has no insulation above it - so no insulation between the garage and kitchen above it. Also though the insulation in the attic is probably a little thin. The question then is: where would you put the insulation if you could only do batt insulation above the garage or blown in insulation in the attic? The attic of course covers the entire house while the garage is only under 1/3 of the upper level. Any experiences or rationales behind your thinking would be appreciated.
--107.77.xx.xx |
Insulation and cooling (by Busy [WI]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 8:03 AM
Message:
I focus in attic and rim joists in basement. Thermal camera might be the right tool to help make your decision. I like to seal around the electrical boxes in attic, and I add pink landscape flags by each junction box to help out Sparky if electrical work is ever needed.
And, boy howdy! Nothing beats a couple of properly placed shade trees for cooling. --172.56.xx.xxx |
Insulation and cooling (by plenty [MO]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 8:11 AM
Message:
I would also ask more questions to tenants about how the are using the thermostat. Perhaps they don't understand how to use it to their advantage. Anywhere u could add insulation do that. You are improving your investment. I have often found tenant, in the name of saving money on utilities, turn temp up too high when the leave, or worst off! And then create the situation themselves! Without really understanding their role. --99.203.xx.xxx |
Insulation and cooling (by NC INVESTOR [NC]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 9:34 AM
Message:
I have a 2500 2 story SFH that the current tenants have complained that the only way they can get the second floor to cool the first floor is absolutely freezing.
The house has two walk out attics on the second floor with more than adequate insulation. My HVAC tech says it is the humidity levels that are causing this which he attributes to the windows. We installed a 70 pint dehumidifier in one of the two attics. We also installed ceiling fans in the two upstairs bedrooms and between the dehumidifier and fans it has fixed the problem.
Of course one part of the problem is that tenants don't understand that when it is mid-90 outside it is impossible to get the temperature down by more than 15-20 degrees regardless of what they set the thermostat to. --71.75.xx.xx |
Insulation and cooling (by fred [CA]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 10:18 AM
Message:
Homes built in the 60s usually have attic insulation that would not meet today's code. Upgrading your attic insulation to meet your local code (probably R30) would be a step in the right direction.
Second step is to ensure proper attic ventilation - verify that insulation is not blocking vent openings around the base of the attic.
Now to the A/C unit: Why did you have to add 2 lbs Freon?
If there is a leak, you have to fix it.
What kind of A/C unit do you have and how old is it?
Now to the Tstat: The time to start the A/C is not when outside temp reaches 90. Explain to the tenant that he/she has to work with the A/C, but not beat it down to a point where it will quit. A/C units need rest too. --99.59.x.xxx |
Insulation and cooling (by Doris [OH]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 10:36 AM
Message:
It is my understanding that heat rises and cold air falls. Therefore if there is no insulation between the garage under the house and the house, cool air could be going down. I agree it’s really important to talk to them about how they’re using the thermostat. Also in our personal residence we had a disparity of heat between the first and second floors and our HVAC company recommended we continuously run the fan to even out the temperature . We then no more problems cents. --74.140.xxx.xxx |
Insulation and cooling (by Landlord ofthe Flies [TX]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 10:52 AM
Message:
True heat rises and cool air falls, but the attic is actually generating heat by absorbing heat from sun on shingles and passing it into the house. The best thing you can do is separate the attic heat from the floors below. That would be done by adding insulation and attic ventilation. I did attic insulation, radiant barrier, and increased ventilation in a rental once and tenants started to feel a difference while they were still installing it. --108.69.xxx.xxx |
Insulation and cooling (by Vee [OH]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 12:19 PM
Message:
Insulation, big help, keeping unit on moderate setting bigger help, seal any air leak biggest help. air leaks around switches/outlets, caulk window/door trim strips (keeps bugs to nearly nothing as well), attic vents good to allow air to sift thru with a breeze? --76.188.xxx.xx |
Insulation and cooling (by Robert J [CA]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 5:20 PM
Message:
There are ways to measure the heat generated from an outside wall and ceilings. Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer from $15 to $25 each.
I'd measure in inside wall and outside wall, ceiling and attic area. Then with that information I can determine if I need to use reflective paint on the exterior of a property. Or if I need to add blown insulation into the walls and/or ceiling/attic areas.
In a property with low ceilings I had to add bat's of rolled insulation in the attic, then blow an additional 16" on top of that to create the necessary heat break. I then also added a solar attic fan. This reduced the temperature in the upstairs unit by some 7 to 9 degrees. --47.156.xx.xx |
Insulation and cooling (by gevans [SC]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 5:28 PM
Message:
Attic first, always. If you can only do one. --98.122.x.xx |
Insulation and cooling (by Rangor [TN]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 5:44 PM
Message:
Thanks - I appreciate the feedback. Looks like I have another project. I just liberated a kitten that has been trapped in a wall of my latest rehab for the last two days, so I am looking for another project to do anyway! --75.136.xxx.xxx |
Insulation and cooling (by Robert,OntarioCanada [ON]) Posted on: May 24, 2018 9:42 PM
Message:
Fiberglass insulation has the lowest air factor of any insulation. It is possible to buy a spray foam kit where there will be the lowest heat transfer. Windows also can cause a considerable heat gain. Single pane act like a green house where double pane with argon gas between the panes is close to a triple pane window. Curtains will also help as less heat will enter room. There are help full videos on You Tube about insulation ceilings, walls. --147.194.xxx.xx |
Insulation and cooling (by Busy [WI]) Posted on: May 25, 2018 4:35 AM
Message:
Kittens do not make good insulation! *grin* --172.56.xx.xxx |
Insulation and cooling (by Hollis [MA]) Posted on: May 25, 2018 12:27 PM
Message:
Well for one thing I find that tenants have a very hard time thinking proactively about temperatures ( if they pay for cooling themselves.) They often wait until their unit feels hot. Or they might turn the AC off to save money thinking that they will turn it on when they get home. By this time the temperature of the walls have crept up and the mass of everything in their unit has gotten hot . That can radiate heat for a long time. Even when they think the temperatures okay they turn the AC off, that mass in their unit is still radiating heat and they find that they have to turn the AC on again shortly. That they do the same mistake all over again the next day. This is especially bad if you have a heat wave.
I also second the recommend a thermal camera, you can get them very cheaply these days and even cheaper if you get one that can attach to smartphone. They're not as good as a real sophisticated thermal camera but they get you in the ballpark showing where walls ceilings etc. might be much hotter than other areas. You then have to decide what to do about those areas.
Also highly, highly,highly recommend you go to your utility company and see if they provide a blower door assessment. Often they will do it for free,..If they don't, there are probably privateers in the area that will. do that. It's true that the most important areas are probably your basement and your attic or top floor..
As far as the people that are complaining that the second floor is hot and the first floor is freezing, you might want to check for the insulation in the walls and ceilings and/or at least pay close attention to air infiltration up there. In the meantime not knowing what relationship you have with your tenants you could buy for around $50 a pedestal high-capacity fan. Put it at the bottom of the stairs and blow the colder upward,... usually it wouldn't have to set it on high,...but low/med it just the circulation will balance out the levels pretty well. Again doing it early before the imbalance becomes too severe. --96.236.xxx.xxx |
Insulation and cooling (by Sisco [MO]) Posted on: May 26, 2018 7:43 AM
Message:
Insulation: do both.
Real issue: the residents won't leave the ac on at their desired temp.
What they want is to switch the unit off, then bring down the temp 20-30 degrees in an hour......nothing is wrong the ac. They have unrealistic expectations. --72.172.xxx.xx |
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